BRESCIA: BOURGEOIS, CUTE, SURPRISING

 After Venice and Florence you would expect Rome.. we went to Sardinia already, where you can find the best sea, then to Abruzzo where the most amazing Appennines are waiting (so to speak..) to be explored. Here we are now in the valleys that face to the Alps, in the city of Brescia, Lombardia region.

 Yeah right Lombardia is where George Clooney has the villa (in Como, north of Milan), the place of Caravaggio (from the town of Caravaggio.. his real name is Michelangelo Merisi). Now this said, Lombardia is the most crowded, by far richest region of Italy. Does that explain why you will never know enough about Lombardia? It's huge, big variety, ranging from small scale jewel Mantova (town of Virgil.. the poet) to Bergamo or Milan, town of mr Berlusconi.. argh.

 Anyway, Brescia is often misunderstood and underestimated, as it was a very very important roman city, in fact the biggest roman city in northern Italy. However, Brescia is famous in italian proverb-size culture as "La Leonessa", the female lion, for its stern pride in battle, especially in the sake of uniting Italy 150 years ago against the Austrians, which dominated this part of Italy (Lombardia, Veneto, Trentino Alto Adige and Friuli Venezia Giulia).

 Brescia is home to some of the richest, most notable families in Italy, and despite being a small city of only about 200.000 inhabitants is home to one of the biggest, longest present immigrant communities (33.000 residents in the city). The province of Brescia alone counts as much as almost 2 million people, which is more than the whole population of Marche. Anyway, it's a much more important place than it seems to the eye of a tourist (even an italian tourist).

 Mille Miglia race starts from Brescia, famous italian writer Aldo Busi (one of the few openly gay successfull intellectuals in Italy) and host to some year long amazing exhibition like last year's Museo Santa Giulia's exhibit dedicated to the Inca. Also, Brescia is famous for pope Paolo VI and for its mundane liberal catholic milieu. It's a place to buy shoes and eat nice food, enjoy the prettiness and then head on to the next step with a full belly and a nice smile on your face. Brescia, the lioness of Lombardia.

 Brescia and Bergamo, which are known to literally "detest" each other in typical italian style (all neighbours complain about each other no?) were both taken under domination of Venice in the 15th century, but in the long run I guess it did help to make them a bit more romantic and renaissance style. Anyway, Brescia is not the most amazing place you will ever see, but it's definitely not the industrial city some will portray. Try to ask them: "But have you ever been to Brescia anyway? Did you know it was the biggest roman colony in the north?" And you will receive as many "no" as your questions about Brescia. Few people know Brescia, those who do, like it.

FLORENCE, WHAT YOU ALREADY KNOW YOU CAN'T MISS

 Ok, I have to say I have some issues with Tuscany: obviously, as you will guess, I hate the fact that all tourists passing by Italy always follow the same route (Venice, Florence, Rome) without giving much importance to the rest.

 So basically whatever Florence does (or sells) it's always successful, because hey, it's Florence, the land of the Renaissance and Medici. That's how this ancient "erboristeria" manages to keep its shop intact after 500 years. Thanks to the tourists which have been pouring gold into the city for so long.

Anyway, it's true, Florence is Florence and, alas, there is no one like Florence. Michelangelo, but also Machiavelli, Dante and Brunelleschi made it so that it will be immortal as long as the world continues. By the way, I was born in Florence so don't you think I'm just jealous because I don't live there myself.

 Italian language was born in Florence, they say, it's not quite true, but it indeed shows how Florence has managed to be the cultural capital of Italy while Rome was still under the Vatican rule (some say it still is..). Florence was the place where foreigners arrived before reaching south.

 The road from France to the Borbonic Kingdom (Naples being its capital), also known as "via francigena" was the main path for intellectuals since (and before) Saint Thomas' times. The reason why Florence is so famous then actually lies in its strategical position between so many important centres such Pisa, Bologna, but also its proximity to Rome, even Liguria or the central Appennines. However, it's not as easy to move there as moving to Calascio (see previous posts), because you will certainly be not the only one..

 Did I manage to convince you it's best to skip Florence as your destination?? Ahah, too bad, because you'd really be missing something. For example this view from Piazzale Michelangelo, at the very top of town. Hills and countryside surrounds the city with the most charming narrow streets reaching out into the woods. So yes, Florence is always worth visiting, even though I would recommend doing so in early autumn or spring, because otherwise it's really too crowded.

GOLFO ARANCI, SARDINIA. A PARADISE TOUT COURT.

 Honestly, sometimes escaping is not enough. Especially if you like swimming. And if you like swimming, there is no other place for you but Sardinia. Put it into account, sometime you will have to go, because truly you won't find a paradise like this anywhere else in the Mediterranean.

 This said, these pictures were taken within 5 km's of Golfo Aranci, which is on the north part of the island. Sardinia is huge and a whole album of pictures wouldn't give it justice. First of all: this island has ruins dating back as old as 6000 years ago. Why? Because there are no earthquakes here. You leave a rock in one position, and it will stay like that for centuries at least. Try and let me know. Look up for "Nuraghe" and you'll see what I'm talking about.

 Second: they always say Sardinians don't know how to fish, and they're not really sea people, as they were originally mountaineers. True, but this place you see here is fairly different. Golfo Aranci in fact is inhabited since less than a century, and it was founded by coral fishermen who came here from the island of Ponza, in "Continental Italy". Yes, you heard well, Sardinians call Italians "Continentals".

 The smell in the air, the amazing landscapes, the simple life, the mountains and the sea make Sardinia one of the places I love the most. You literally have everything: history, nature, civilization (not so much of that one.. at least the recent one) and a flight to go anywhere in Europe in one hour.

 So, that's where we're going next week, because Sardinia in september is still much warmer than France in July =) and there will be no tourists left..

Last thing: no, Golfo Aranci is not Golfo degli Aranci, and no, there is no orange tree here. It seems the name "aranci" comes from a particular kind of seaweeds in the area. But don't get afraid, even seaweeds look great in Sardinia.

TIRED OF THE CRISIS? GO LIVE IN CALASCIO OR ON GRAN SASSO

 It's a chance we made it up to Rocca di Calascio. I had met some time before 2 people from Calascio, where they grow bio-food and live in rock stones in one of the coldest places of Italy. Despite being quite southern, the region of Abruzzo is very mountaineous, so it happens to be as cold as the Alps. In fact, the Appennines reach in Abruzzo the highest peak, with Gran Sasso.

It was getting night when we went through the enormous tunnel under Gran Sasso, where it's also placed the biggest physics laboratory underground in Europe. Or is it in the world? That's how it always goes everywhere you go.. records and such. Well, Abruzzo has a good track of record: wild, rocky, land of emigration, old factories, and some sad stories of gas stored into mountains, earthquakes (the last one destroyed beloved L'Aquila in 2009).

 I'm not making you very curious to see Abruzzo eh? Well, don't get afraid, earthquakes happen just once in a while, and as most hidden places, Abruzzo has treasures which not many find. One of these is Calascio, especially for its Rocca, the castle which you saw in the first pic. From there you have this great view of the valley facing south, while L'Aquila is just a few km's on the right.

 Place of shepherds, emigrants and good hearted people (usually!), Abruzzo goes from one side to the other of the Appennines, from Chieti, Pescara, and all the beach, long, flat cities of the Adriatic, to the mountaineous, bear inhabited woods of the Marsica. If you like climbing, mountains and good air, this is the place for you.

L'Aquila is only about 1 hour away from Rome, making it very linked to the Capital. In the Parco del Gran Sasso, where Calascio is, took place also the big "farce" which followed the capture of Mussolini, who was imprisoned here on top of unreachable mountains, until the German 16th panzerdivision arrived from the sky.. useless to say, legends arose also about this, or whether Benito Mussolini is actually the father of conservative, mundane tv journalist Bruno Vespa, as stated by Mussolini's nephew (who has been in Parliament for quite a few years now, surprisingly enough..) .
Anyway, when you're up in Calascio, just think that that was the place where fantasy movie Ladyhawke was shot, but also parts of "The name of the rose". And if history, work, love or anything might be bothering you, please consider becoming a shepherd of the mountains of Parco del Gran Sasso, or a bio-farmer in Calascio, it might just be the life for you =)

Yann Tiersen concert in Italy

URBINO, IN THE HEART OF MONTEFELTRO (AND RENAISSANCE)

 It's time to write about the region where I live, Marche. It's virtually unknown by most tourists, so I think that makes it even more special. This above is considered one of the most important Renaissance building in Italy, the Duke's Palace.

 In fact, Marche is quite unknown also by Italians, except for a few landmarks, like Urbino, where you can taste the original "crescia", a sort of piadina, something like an indian "naan", filled with vegetables, cheese or prosciutto... mmmmm

 Unfortunately we couldn't go around Urbino so much, because I really just wanted to stop there for a nice crescia in front of an unbeatable panorama, after a visit to a very weird town, near Urbino. Its name is Urbania (from latin "urbs", "town") where you can visit the "Church of the dead", naturally preserved mummies from 400 years ago. You can read more about it here.

LIGURIA, WHAT YOU WOULD CALL "THE ITALIAN RIVIERA"

 Despite being very north, Liguria enjoys a Mediterranean climate which makes it home to some of the best flowers in Italy.. ehm, in Europe!

  ..after dedicating a whole post to Venezia, I shouldn't probably write one about all of Liguria, the latter being a region, while Venezia is just one city of Veneto region. But anyway, who cares!
Liguria is an amazing place, really, a very thin land made of mountains, cliffs and lots of sea.

 Roman and medieval ruins get mixed up in Liguria, where a lot of people live in a very small space. The roads, buildings, highways across Liguria are some of the most amazing achievements in engineering in Italy, but somehow I still like to stick to the old stuff.

 A reason why to go to Liguria? Oh well, we went for a wedding, and the setting was just about perfect!

 Rocks and sea, rocks and sea. Liguria is just about enjoying both climbing and swimming.

 How can I write about Liguria without mentioning Genova, its capital?
The city of Cristoforo Colombo (the guy who went to America in 1492!), famous for its port, its music, and a long tradition of working class unions. Here below a dear friend of mine, on the right, playing along with a Rom musician in front of magnificent San Lorenzo Cathedral.. you'll have to google that up tho.

So now, forgive me for not putting any pesto sauce picture, but we were too busy eating it!