the Italian Tour

TORINO, FIRST IN RECORDS

2011-11-16T16:36:00.000-08:00

Welcome to Torino, land of statistics and records:

first capital of Italy - biggest Egyptian museum outside of Egypt - tallest brick building in Europe (the Mole Antonelliana) - first Italian capital of cinema, fashion and many other things. Just ask a person from Torino and you will see how many more of these stats they can list. Some funny ones are: the biggest square in Italy without a monument (last picture) and the biggest roofless market in Europe. I think these alone are enough to arouse your curiosity about Torino, also known as Turin, as it's called both by its most traditional inhabitants and by foreigners like the guy just below.

So, the Mole, which you see here below, was meant to be a synagogue but then Antonelli, the architect, kept making it higher and higher until it became too expensive and the Jewish community abandoned the project. Imagine that on top of the very top there was even a 7 mt long angel, which fell down several years ago, with posthumous disappointment by Antonelli (who was indeed a strange fellow). Now the Mole hosts a very contemporary, and very visited, Museum of Cinema. If you go to Torino, also consider going to the nearby Cinema Massimo, which features non dubbed movies of the greatest quality.

Torino is the city of baroque, bourgeoisie, business (not as much as in Milan but don't remind Turin people of this) and.. drums rolling.. Italy. Italy was "invented" under these alleys, as noblemen, literary people, politicians and a king (of the Savoy family) decided to embark on the strange adventure of uniting the peninsula. In Torino you can find lots of information about this and also a very interesting, recently renewed Museum of Risorgimento, as that era is called.

Good place for a tram ride, or maybe just stopping at some garden, bike and watch the fountains go up and down. Torino is a very entertaining city, far from the metropolitan vibe of Milan or Rome, but rather an elegant, outgoing yet formal town. I was there for 5 years to study, so I know what I'm talking about right?

I have been sitting on these benches long enough, though, so I decided to leave and I was quite happy of doing so. However, what I miss most of Torino is crossing the square below on the way to the hills, across the river and up in the green, among villas, moroccan drug dealers and couples strolling through. Definitely an elite town seen from the perspective of a tourist, but quite a mess once you get in it. So now, I don't know what you're in for most.

LA VERNA, RESTING IN THE APPENNINES

2011-10-02T13:31:00.000-07:00

I bet all visitors in La Verna sometime will go back there. It happened to me longtime ago, after I went there for the first time with a high school trip. I was maybe 14 and I didnt care about traveling.. yes, it did happen! Later on during summer vacation, my mother, as she had relatives in the area and wanted to go visit, asked me if I would join the trip. I was really, really difficult to convince, but in the end I accepted. Oh mamma mia! Anyway, during our stay in Arezzo with the relatives, we found the time for a day out in La Verna, a place that was given to San Francesco by a local nobleman, where a monastery was built in the middle of woods.

The picture above maybe will not tell you so much, but if you notice that little person there, you will see also a door. If you open that door, I bet you will be speechless, with tears on your eyes, both for the beauty of the place, and for the sudden surprise of finding the forest upon opening the door.

I am sure not everybody in here is religious, let alone catholic. Myself I cannot consider possible the idea that man was unsaveable before the arrival of Jesus Christ. This said, the example of San Francesco who, some 800 years ago gave up everything to lead a poor life with his fellow humans and animals.. and the fact that San Francesco was indeed one of the very first writing, and very finely, in italian, well San Francesco for me is a must. Thanks maybe to the lack of gossip and informal records about so long ago, I have no reason to doubt even for a second the greatness of this man, who really sang a hymn to life and truth all his life. So whoever you are, whatever you believe or dont believe in, dont come tell me that La Verna didnt move you.

So, La Verna is spectacular but its not just the monastery, but the whole area itself. Near Emilia Romagna, Marche and bordering with Umbria, La Verna is definitely not the typical tuscan location, but more like the typical wonderworld that the Appennines provide us with all around Italy. You have to know that the Appennine mountains go from as north as Liguria all the way down to Calabria, so we can say that the spine of Italy is made of rocks, woods and grass which divides east and west, the warm Tirrenium in front of the Mediterranean and the cooler Adriatic facing the Balkans. The Appennines divide Italy, yet everywhere you will go in the Appennines, you will always find a particular atmosphere common to all of Italy.

Obviously, the right time to go there is in the middle seasons, especially spring. But many people go to La Verna in summer time to escape the heat of cities. Personally, I prefer less crowded months such as april, may, june or september. A good suggestion would be going when your favorite crop is growing.. its all about colors when nature is concerned, and the predominant one in winter time is white as the snow, so its probably not the best time to drive around these places. So, do visit when colors are sparkling.

Like I said, La Verna itself is a religious location, so for a convinced, hardcore atheist it might be a good location for a long discussion about the existence_non existence of the divine etc. Funny enough, this area is very popular among bikers, who love the breath taking roads with endless curves and valleys opening up the view. I guess bikers also like the place because of their heavy clothing which makes summer unbearable.. not enough of a reason to become christian tho, I guess..

AUDACES ROMA IUVANT. A (VERY) SHORT GUIDE TO ROME

2011-09-24T15:46:00.000-07:00

So, finally.. ECCE ROMA! Here we are in the Capital, Roma "caput mundi", meaning the "head", the "centre" of the world. After the Egyptians and the long lasting Greeks, who by the way also colonised Italy first, a new people is born, the Romans.

Some say, especially this 150th anniversary of Italy, that Italy was never quite created, however everybody knows that if Italy does exist then its capital is certainly Rome. From the Empire to the Dolce Vita, Rome has been the ultimate red carpet for all ruling classes and for ever growing numbers of so called "normal people".

Funny enough, a "normal person" in Rome will still know more than any counterpart in other places of Italy. Not just the names of the Popes (the Vatican is veeery near), but also all the political intrigues, complots and conspiracies which have been at the heart of Rome and therefore of Italy.

Certainly politics has never been an easy matter, and even in Roman times some crazy characters have indeed made the history through their bizarre acts, like Caligula or Nero. However, with the Empire only a memory in ruins and storybooks, Rome has survived its reputation simply by adhering to it. I mean, imperial Rome is still Rome today. Only, it's been surrounded, not by the barbarians this time, but by local rural people and immigrants from anywhere in Italy, and say, the world.

Despite being an ex-imperial city though, Rome is still somewhat of a provincial town, with its dialect and traditions, except for one detail: the Catholic Church. As the longest serving institution in the world, the Church has dominated these lands for centuries with its Vatican State including Rome and most of central Italy, ending in 1870 with the "Breccia of Porta Pia".

It's not exactly fair to skip Rome and only talk about the Vatican, but it is indeed the biggest peculiarity of Rome, which is the only city in the world hosting two embassies for each country, as two countries are in the same city: Italy, and the absolute monarchy aka Roman Catholic Church. This means we will have two foreign ambassadors in Rome for the same country, as one will be representing his country in Italy, and the other in the Vatican.

Now, there's not enough land in today's Vatican state to actually represent their power - which I personally believe to be much higher than that of Italy - but if you think you're going to Rome but skipping the Vatican Museums you must be crazy.

This said, there is so much more to see in Rome than what tourists actually see, as the proverb goes "One lifettime is not enough to see all the churches of Rome", and that accounts also for the squares, statues, botteghe, restaurants or pickpocketers. Also, one another thing which you will find in great abundance in Italy is the so-called "auto blu", a car especially designed for politicians and other high serving officials, which seem not to have money to buy their own cars. Anyway, Rome, with all its despisable privileges and political intrigues is what I call a city worth visiting 100 times at least.

One last thing: when you go to Campo de' Fiori, which everybody will suggest you as the ultimate place for the night movida (sic!) please do remember that statue in the middle of the square is dedicated to the amazing thinker Giordano Bruno, who was killed precisely there in 1600 by the very same Catholic Church I was mentioning before. As we say in Italian: "Il diavolo fa le pentole, ma non i coperchi", "the devil makes the pots but not the covers". Now, when you understand this proverb you will definitely feel more italian.

MOLISE, THE PLACE YOU JUST DIDN'T THINK OF

2011-09-20T14:46:00.000-07:00

Ok, we're approaching autumn and I thought of one of the most unlucky places in Italy: Molise. Famous for the massive migration, the pasta (no wonder) and as the birth place of political figure Antonio Di Pietro, who has been asking pretty much everyday in the last 3 years for Berlusconi to quit his role as prime minister. This said, Molise is one of the most isolated, marginalised areas of Italy.

It's very unlikely you will even have a chance to go to this town, which is named Pietracatella. I happen to know it just because I have some relatives there. Basically Molise is made of mountains, and the towns are either in the valley, like Molise's capital Campobasso ("Kamp bash", as said in the local dialect) or on the moutains. Meaning: more isolation in an already isolated region. All the old houses of the so-called "nobles" though are still there untouched, as Pietracatella has known little war to destroy it, little tourism to restore it. It's there, like many other towns in Italy (outside of Tuscany), abandoned to itself but with a certain charme due to its sporadic history. In fact, I think the charme of towns like this is their being in between a "favela" and a small (unknown) medieval kingdom.

The most interesting fact to think about when it comes to southern Italy, is the fact that most of it wasn't Italy until the unification in the second half of the 19th century. Borbonic kingdom, local noble families turned into rural dynasties, and cyclical migrations are just as home in Pietracatella as in many other southern places. The buildings are gray'ing, the cement based restoring of the '60s led the way to a mix between past and present, in a typical italian fashion: never build a new idea, always fix the old one.

Like this, tradition is the richness of this and other places where you can find an unfinished wall forever to stay that way. On the other hand, folklore does manifest itself in particular moments, like Christmas, or weddings, where the locals strive to give the best party ever. All the local youths are involved in music, dance and the fiesta which has been the trait d'union between greek and roman and so on..

Anyway, it would be unfair to say that Molise has nothing to offer except for melancholia and Sturm und Drang, but this don't seem so bad if you come to think of it. If you go to Molise it's very likely you can be the only tourist in town for the last months, years, even decades, and in some cases, centuries. If you add to this that Molise is on the way to Campania across the Appennines from the Adriatic side to the Tirrenium, then yes, you might find interesting to think of actually exploring a bit Molise.

One thing you should remember is that regions are a relatively new "invention" in Italy, as they were created only in 1971. Which for Italy, it goes without saying, is pretty much more than contemporary, postmodernist. Anyway, the real area which you might be interested to think about is "Il Sannio", which actually includes parts of neighbouring Campania, especially the province of Benevento (where my parents come from, by the way). So I might be partial, and I surely am, but the "Sanniti" people did leave some pretty cool legends, ruins, and.. facial features. However, farmers in Molise and most of Sannio are a bit suspicious of cameras (at least the modern ones) so I had to settle for a picture of the ennnormous windmills in the area. Enjoy..

If you really liked the windmills and feel like some more Sturm und Drang, don't forget to waste your time with this atopic (unlikely) video below:

SAN VITO LO CAPO, SICILY. THE BEST COUS COUS IN THE FREAKING WORLD.

2011-09-16T04:07:00.000-07:00

It doesn't happen everywhere to go to the beach at the end of October. Yet, I suppose that's why Italy is so amazing. As in continental Italy you get prepared to receive snow and endless rain for a couple of months, Sicily welcomes you off season with its most precious hospitality.

I actually started this blog writing about San Vito lo Capo and the Cous Cous house of Enzo Battaglia, great chef and storyteller of fishing traditions. However, I think I should add something in english for those of you who might be on the way to Sicily and have no idea of what kind of paradise San Vito lo Capo is.

Less than half an hour away from Trapani and not so far from the regional capital Palermo, San Vito lo Capo to me appeared as a small version of Rio de Janeiro (ok, very very small!) due to its wonderful Peak ('morro' in portuguese) just in front of the sea. Also, one thing that amazed me is the proximity to green areas with virtually no trash - that's not so common in southern Italy I'm afraid.

The view from the top woods is really something worth trying, especially off season. We went in late october, when you would find a crappy weather basically anywhere in Italy except for here and few other places.

But yes, let's face it, the real "must" in San Vito lo Capo is cous cous, which we tried once and fell in love with forever. Honestly, in many years traveling around Italy I don't think I've ever tasted something quite as delicious. Obviously, the cous cous has to be made by hand and served with fresh fish and local vegetables. It's an art that shouldn't be mistaken with pre-cooked cous cous of sorts.

San Vito is also home to a very reknowned Cous Cous Festival which attracts several thousands people, so I guess if you like it crowded that's the time for you, but I'm afraid no festival can beat Enzo's home made dishes.

Anyway, once you're done stuffing your belly with this rare, amazing delicacy, you'd better burn some calories by exploring the surrounding areas, especially on the way to the unique Riserva dello Zingaro. Inhabited since Neolithic times, this natural park will provide for more surprising sights and sighs. Enough to make you hungry again as you run back to San Vito.

Hey, it's quite a few km's from San Vito to the Riserva, but I think if you're good biking it wouldn't take more than one hour, otherwise just rent a car downtown in San Vito (and also avoid the most touristic restaurants, if I may.. stick to Enzo's casa del Cous Cous, and tell him we sent you there.. that's the way to do it in Sicily!)

Costa Smeralda promo video by Katrina Tan

2011-09-09T03:18:00.000-07:00

BRESCIA: BOURGEOIS, CUTE, SURPRISING

2011-09-07T15:30:00.000-07:00

After Venice and Florence you would expect Rome.. we went to Sardinia already, where you can find the best sea, then to Abruzzo where the most amazing Appennines are waiting (so to speak..) to be explored. Here we are now in the valleys that face to the Alps, in the city of Brescia, Lombardia region.

Yeah right Lombardia is where George Clooney has the villa (in Como, north of Milan), the place of Caravaggio (from the town of Caravaggio.. his real name is Michelangelo Merisi). Now this said, Lombardia is the most crowded, by far richest region of Italy. Does that explain why you will never know enough about Lombardia? It's huge, big variety, ranging from small scale jewel Mantova (town of Virgil.. the poet) to Bergamo or Milan, town of mr Berlusconi.. argh.

Anyway, Brescia is often misunderstood and underestimated, as it was a very very important roman city, in fact the biggest roman city in northern Italy. However, Brescia is famous in italian proverb-size culture as "La Leonessa", the female lion, for its stern pride in battle, especially in the sake of uniting Italy 150 years ago against the Austrians, which dominated this part of Italy (Lombardia, Veneto, Trentino Alto Adige and Friuli Venezia Giulia).

Brescia is home to some of the richest, most notable families in Italy, and despite being a small city of only about 200.000 inhabitants is home to one of the biggest, longest present immigrant communities (33.000 residents in the city). The province of Brescia alone counts as much as almost 2 million people, which is more than the whole population of Marche. Anyway, it's a much more important place than it seems to the eye of a tourist (even an italian tourist).

Mille Miglia race starts from Brescia, famous italian writer Aldo Busi (one of the few openly gay successfull intellectuals in Italy) and host to some year long amazing exhibition like last year's Museo Santa Giulia's exhibit dedicated to the Inca. Also, Brescia is famous for pope Paolo VI and for its mundane liberal catholic milieu. It's a place to buy shoes and eat nice food, enjoy the prettiness and then head on to the next step with a full belly and a nice smile on your face. Brescia, the lioness of Lombardia.

Brescia and Bergamo, which are known to literally "detest" each other in typical italian style (all neighbours complain about each other no?) were both taken under domination of Venice in the 15th century, but in the long run I guess it did help to make them a bit more romantic and renaissance style. Anyway, Brescia is not the most amazing place you will ever see, but it's definitely not the industrial city some will portray. Try to ask them: "But have you ever been to Brescia anyway? Did you know it was the biggest roman colony in the north?" And you will receive as many "no" as your questions about Brescia. Few people know Brescia, those who do, like it.

FLORENCE, WHAT YOU ALREADY KNOW YOU CAN'T MISS

2011-09-05T05:39:00.000-07:00

Ok, I have to say I have some issues with Tuscany: obviously, as you will guess, I hate the fact that all tourists passing by Italy always follow the same route (Venice, Florence, Rome) without giving much importance to the rest.

So basically whatever Florence does (or sells) it's always successful, because hey, it's Florence, the land of the Renaissance and Medici. That's how this ancient "erboristeria" manages to keep its shop intact after 500 years. Thanks to the tourists which have been pouring gold into the city for so long.

Anyway, it's true, Florence is Florence and, alas, there is no one like Florence. Michelangelo, but also Machiavelli, Dante and Brunelleschi made it so that it will be immortal as long as the world continues. By the way, I was born in Florence so don't you think I'm just jealous because I don't live there myself.

Italian language was born in Florence, they say, it's not quite true, but it indeed shows how Florence has managed to be the cultural capital of Italy while Rome was still under the Vatican rule (some say it still is..). Florence was the place where foreigners arrived before reaching south.

The road from France to the Borbonic Kingdom (Naples being its capital), also known as "via francigena" was the main path for intellectuals since (and before) Saint Thomas' times. The reason why Florence is so famous then actually lies in its strategical position between so many important centres such Pisa, Bologna, but also its proximity to Rome, even Liguria or the central Appennines. However, it's not as easy to move there as moving to Calascio (see previous posts), because you will certainly be not the only one..

Did I manage to convince you it's best to skip Florence as your destination?? Ahah, too bad, because you'd really be missing something. For example this view from Piazzale Michelangelo, at the very top of town. Hills and countryside surrounds the city with the most charming narrow streets reaching out into the woods. So yes, Florence is always worth visiting, even though I would recommend doing so in early autumn or spring, because otherwise it's really too crowded.

GOLFO ARANCI, SARDINIA. A PARADISE TOUT COURT.

2011-09-02T05:37:00.000-07:00

Honestly, sometimes escaping is not enough. Especially if you like swimming. And if you like swimming, there is no other place for you but Sardinia. Put it into account, sometime you will have to go, because truly you won't find a paradise like this anywhere else in the Mediterranean.

This said, these pictures were taken within 5 km's of Golfo Aranci, which is on the north part of the island. Sardinia is huge and a whole album of pictures wouldn't give it justice. First of all: this island has ruins dating back as old as 6000 years ago. Why? Because there are no earthquakes here. You leave a rock in one position, and it will stay like that for centuries at least. Try and let me know. Look up for "Nuraghe" and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Second: they always say Sardinians don't know how to fish, and they're not really sea people, as they were originally mountaineers. True, but this place you see here is fairly different. Golfo Aranci in fact is inhabited since less than a century, and it was founded by coral fishermen who came here from the island of Ponza, in "Continental Italy". Yes, you heard well, Sardinians call Italians "Continentals".

The smell in the air, the amazing landscapes, the simple life, the mountains and the sea make Sardinia one of the places I love the most. You literally have everything: history, nature, civilization (not so much of that one.. at least the recent one) and a flight to go anywhere in Europe in one hour.

So, that's where we're going next week, because Sardinia in september is still much warmer than France in July =) and there will be no tourists left..

Last thing: no, Golfo Aranci is not Golfo degli Aranci, and no, there is no orange tree here. It seems the name "aranci" comes from a particular kind of seaweeds in the area. But don't get afraid, even seaweeds look great in Sardinia.

TIRED OF THE CRISIS? GO LIVE IN CALASCIO OR ON GRAN SASSO

2011-08-30T07:23:00.000-07:00

It's a chance we made it up to Rocca di Calascio. I had met some time before 2 people from Calascio, where they grow bio-food and live in rock stones in one of the coldest places of Italy. Despite being quite southern, the region of Abruzzo is very mountaineous, so it happens to be as cold as the Alps. In fact, the Appennines reach in Abruzzo the highest peak, with Gran Sasso.

It was getting night when we went through the enormous tunnel under Gran Sasso, where it's also placed the biggest physics laboratory underground in Europe. Or is it in the world? That's how it always goes everywhere you go.. records and such. Well, Abruzzo has a good track of record: wild, rocky, land of emigration, old factories, and some sad stories of gas stored into mountains, earthquakes (the last one destroyed beloved L'Aquila in 2009).

I'm not making you very curious to see Abruzzo eh? Well, don't get afraid, earthquakes happen just once in a while, and as most hidden places, Abruzzo has treasures which not many find. One of these is Calascio, especially for its Rocca, the castle which you saw in the first pic. From there you have this great view of the valley facing south, while L'Aquila is just a few km's on the right.

Place of shepherds, emigrants and good hearted people (usually!), Abruzzo goes from one side to the other of the Appennines, from Chieti, Pescara, and all the beach, long, flat cities of the Adriatic, to the mountaineous, bear inhabited woods of the Marsica. If you like climbing, mountains and good air, this is the place for you.

L'Aquila is only about 1 hour away from Rome, making it very linked to the Capital. In the Parco del Gran Sasso, where Calascio is, took place also the big "farce" which followed the capture of Mussolini, who was imprisoned here on top of unreachable mountains, until the German 16th panzerdivision arrived from the sky.. useless to say, legends arose also about this, or whether Benito Mussolini is actually the father of conservative, mundane tv journalist Bruno Vespa, as stated by Mussolini's nephew (who has been in Parliament for quite a few years now, surprisingly enough..) .
Anyway, when you're up in Calascio, just think that that was the place where fantasy movie Ladyhawke was shot, but also parts of "The name of the rose". And if history, work, love or anything might be bothering you, please consider becoming a shepherd of the mountains of Parco del Gran Sasso, or a bio-farmer in Calascio, it might just be the life for you =)

Yann Tiersen concert in Italy

2011-08-28T07:48:00.000-07:00

URBINO, IN THE HEART OF MONTEFELTRO (AND RENAISSANCE)

2011-08-26T13:37:00.000-07:00

It's time to write about the region where I live, Marche. It's virtually unknown by most tourists, so I think that makes it even more special. This above is considered one of the most important Renaissance building in Italy, the Duke's Palace.

In fact, Marche is quite unknown also by Italians, except for a few landmarks, like Urbino, where you can taste the original "crescia", a sort of piadina, something like an indian "naan", filled with vegetables, cheese or prosciutto... mmmmm

Unfortunately we couldn't go around Urbino so much, because I really just wanted to stop there for a nice crescia in front of an unbeatable panorama, after a visit to a very weird town, near Urbino. Its name is Urbania (from latin "urbs", "town") where you can visit the "Church of the dead", naturally preserved mummies from 400 years ago. You can read more about it here.

LIGURIA, WHAT YOU WOULD CALL "THE ITALIAN RIVIERA"

2011-08-25T11:08:00.000-07:00

Despite being very north, Liguria enjoys a Mediterranean climate which makes it home to some of the best flowers in Italy.. ehm, in Europe!

..after dedicating a whole post to Venezia, I shouldn't probably write one about all of Liguria, the latter being a region, while Venezia is just one city of Veneto region. But anyway, who cares!
Liguria is an amazing place, really, a very thin land made of mountains, cliffs and lots of sea.

Roman and medieval ruins get mixed up in Liguria, where a lot of people live in a very small space. The roads, buildings, highways across Liguria are some of the most amazing achievements in engineering in Italy, but somehow I still like to stick to the old stuff.

A reason why to go to Liguria? Oh well, we went for a wedding, and the setting was just about perfect!

Rocks and sea, rocks and sea. Liguria is just about enjoying both climbing and swimming.

How can I write about Liguria without mentioning Genova, its capital?
The city of Cristoforo Colombo (the guy who went to America in 1492!), famous for its port, its music, and a long tradition of working class unions. Here below a dear friend of mine, on the right, playing along with a Rom musician in front of magnificent San Lorenzo Cathedral.. you'll have to google that up tho.

So now, forgive me for not putting any pesto sauce picture, but we were too busy eating it!

VENICE - THE MUST OF ANY TOURIST IN ITALY

2011-08-24T04:29:00.000-07:00

Ok, I'm not crazy about suggesting you what you already know: Venice is unique, impossible to miss, a real must for anybody.

When you do go to Venice though, please consider it's very very very touristic, so you might want to visit it a bit off season, that is, not in December before Christmas, and especially not during summertime. Too hot and humid.

Despite the rumors that claim Venice smells, I believe it doesn't smell at all. Obviously if you go in the middle of heat you can't expect to find it refreshing.. so again, don't go in july-august.

When you go to Venice, please don't hang around only in Piazza San Marco, but explore as much as possible. One touristic thing you can do without feeling guilty though, is to send a postcard from Venezia, the one and only.

FRANCESCO CONTE. TRAVEL, JOURNALISM, ART.

2011-05-26T09:06:00.000-07:00

This is the page of italian journalist Francesco Conte

http://www.franatopos.com/

videoreel here: http://www.vimeo.com/24232183

0 the 1: Chiesa dei Morti

2011-05-06T07:31:00.000-07:00

0 the 1: Chiesa dei Morti: "Outside Chiesa dei Morti Church of the dead in Urbania. In the early 1600s the act of burying the dead wasn't a norm and generally poor peo..."

SICILIA, SAN VITO LO CAPO @ la casa di Enzo

2011-02-11T05:06:00.000-08:00

Mi avevano avvisato: una volta vista San Vito lo Capo, si ritorna. Un paradiso, dicono tutti. Ma certo non ci aspettavamo di fare il bagno il 29 ottobre, per poi rifocillarci con un abbondante piatto di couscous, rigorosamente fatto in casa. E 'casa' infatti chiama Enzo Battaglia il suo ristorante, la 'casa del couscous' sanvitese.

A San Vito il Cous Cous è uno spirito immanente, un vero genius loci. Ed Enzo ne sa qualcosa, visto che era lui il sindaco qui, quando si fece la prima sagra del couscous. “Son stato qualche anno a insegnare nelle scuole in Friuli, da quelle parti si fanno spesso feste e sagre, quindi mi è venuto in mente di replicare l'idea qui, con i nostri prodotti locali”, ci racconta. Il pesce quindi, e le verdure, il tutto innaffiato da buon vino e le parole di chi conosce il territorio, le stagioni, i sacrifici di tanti marinai che hanno fatto la storia del paese. Il couscous parla siciliano, ma capisce ogni idioma, sul Mediterraneo e oltre. Non è un mistero che il Festival dedicato all'omonimo piatto richiama negli ultimi anni in questo piccolo angolo di Sicilia svariate decine di migliaia di visitatori. Non è questo però che attirava la mia attenzione.

Da qualche mese viaggio per l'Italia con mia moglie, un’artista multimediale filippina - e cuoca provetta - alla ricerca di quei piatti che le facciano passare la nostalgia di casa. I cibi che ci sono familiari, si sa, ci portano in una dimensione eterea, magica e persistente, dove il gusto assilla la mente, procurando felicità all'anima, passando per il corpo. Un vero déjà vu. Da mesi cerco quel piatto 'perfetto' che possa curare la ferita del ricordo di Katrina dei suoi cibi prediletti. Dal Piemonte alla Campania, passando per Sardegna, Emilia, Marche, Lazio, Toscana e Abruzzo, abbiamo provato ricotta fresca e gli agnolotti, tagliatelle, stoccafisso, agnello, ribollite, lasagne, carne e piatti della tradizione, dovunque ho visto il suo sguardo affascinato, ma da nessuna parte come a San Vito la soddisfazione è stata così piena. In un anno e oltre di peregrinazioni (per alcuni – come mio padre – è tutta una vita!) non abbiamo mai provato un piatto così buono, ricco, fresco e appagante. Il couscous da Enzo è davvero un'esperienza da non perdere.

Non c'è niente di meno razionale che cucinare. Tutto è intuito, tradizione, rispetto dei sapori, dei profumi, dei prodotti del territorio. Sentirsi a casa nel cibo equivale allora a sperimentare sulla propria pelle una nuova vita.

Se però proprio si vuole cercare questa ragione di vita - sì, avete letto bene! - beh, allora prima o poi mettete in conto di andare a San Vito lo Capo, a neanche mezz'ora da Trapani, dove tra l'altro opera anche Ryan Air.

Andate a San Vito e chiedete di Enzo Battaglia e del suo ristorante, La Casa del Cous Cous. Noi siamo andati a fine stagione, quando ormai Enzo era pronto a partire per la Tunisia con i due ragazzi che ha accolto da padre, procurando loro un lavoro sicuro e regolare nel bed and breakfast di famiglia. Tutto all'insegna del couscous, dell'ospitalità e del profondo rispetto per la natura, in particolare quel mare meraviglioso che lambisce le coste sanvitesi.

Se pensate però di arricchirvi soltanto la pancia però, sbagliate di brutto. Si dà il caso infatti che San Vito vanti una degli spazi naturali più belli d'Italia, la Riserva dello Zingaro, dove colori tropicali e onde mozzafiato vanno di pari passo con preistoria e archeologia.

Che aspettate insomma, già a febbraio i mandorli in fiore riempiono la Sicilia, gli aerei non mancano (Ancona - Trapani diverse volte a settimana) senza bisogno di scomodare lo stretto di Messina. Certo, la Sicilia è vasta e grande, tante le cose da vedere, ma quando avete voglia di riposare e farvi del bene, c'è una 'casa' che vi aspetta.